I just came back from a trip to Dominica last week visiting an old friend there. When I lived in the US Virgin Islands, I used to fly into Melville Hall Airport on the northeast coast–always a hairy landing skimming the tops of coconut trees on approach. Glad to say that the airport has been significantly upgraded and now welcomes commercial airline jets from the US. But even though it’s much easier to get to Dominica these days and the island is “on the map,” the place remains a world apart–mind-blowing wild beauty that, except for a few small towns, not much different than what Columbus saw when he sailed by in 1493.

I stayed in Dos D’Ane village surrounded by high mountains of green jungle between the airport and the town of Portsmouth on the west coast. The name means “back of the donkey.” Not sure why the village is called that, but it’s about as tranquil as it gets. To get there or anywhere in Dominica, prep yourself for some serious switchback mountain roads that somehow everyone there knows how to navigate. (Luckily, I wasn’t driving.) The roads are mostly pretty well-paved, though not very wide. But what really catches the eye is the extensive beautification along the roads all over the country. I mean gorgeous plants lining the streets and not one bit of litter. The people and government are totally committed to retaining the ecological wonderland that it is.

Food, as you might imagine, grows everywhere in the rich soil. People who have more than they need from the garden give it away. No one goes hungry in Dominica. Some houses are ramshackle but most are modest structures and well-maintained. A few high-end fancy resorts appear here and there but they are small.

Beaches? Mainly rocks and grey or black sand. This is a volcanic island after all. While the beaches don’t invite much swimming like the Turks & Caicos, they still mesmerize the senses. Along with the jagged coast of jungle with mist sweeping down from the high peaks. And the waterfalls, rivers, and small lakes, cold and hot. In Dominica, a sense of adventure greets you at every turn as do the wonderfully friendly people. Everyone is genuine and helpful. And if you meet tourists visiting from anywhere, you will surely share a spirit of being in a magical place.

Being the political junkie that I am, I took close look at the ubiquitous Chinese government presence on Dominica. Projects everywhere! Hospitals, schools, and friendship centers all with signs in English letters and Chinese characters. The biggest project of all is a massive airport under construction just a couple of miles north of the current airport. Huge trucks carrying rock and dirt run 24 hours a day, I’m told. Cranes and bulldozers clear away giant swaths of jungle. But a brand new airport clearly is not needed since the current one with its small terminal handles all the flights just fine.

Now plans are afoot to build a giant port right next to the new airport, ostensibly to bring in all the construction material so the Chinese don’t have to truck it across the island from the capital Roseau. OK, but a whole new port just to support the airport? All of which begs the question, what’s really going on?

Actually, Chinese presence all over the Caribbean is growing with no end in sight. Why? Influence, UN votes, radar stations, maybe even bases are likely all on the agenda in view of proximity to the US. I should add that Trump’s saber rattling over Venezuela and recent ban on granting travel visas to Dominicans has turned many here against the US government. An that has no doubt made the Chinese presence easier to accept. Troubling since US and Dominica have always been natural allies along with the rest of the Caribbean islands. But that tradition is fast disappearing as the Chinese pour in economic development while the US shows off with a fleet of big gunboats. Watch this space for updates.