While Port-au-Prince is being swallowed up by gangs per the previous posting, Cap-Haitien in the north, as well as other towns well outside Port-au-Prince, are actually quite calm and relatively safe. It’s really a tale of two cities.

Many if not most UN agencies have moved their offices to Cap-Haitien from Port-au-Prince. Cargo ships are opting to call on this city instead of Port-au-Prince and Cap-Haitien also has the only international airport in Haiti since Port-au-Prince international airport has closed. (A smaller airport in Jeremy is also being opened to international air traffic for people living in the south so they don’t have to risk taking the dangerous road from Cap-Haitien.) Even Royal Caribbean cruise ships are calling on Labadee just outside Cap-Haitien. In fact, the city, the second largest in Haiti with well-over 500,000 people, is seeing a financial boost, especially in lodging and transportation.

Cap-Haitian’s big downside is overcrowding. The streets are packed with people who have fled Port-au-Prince. Some find relatives to stay with. Others must find shelter near the streets. And that large influx in turn has made the streets dirtier. Nonetheless, the city is thriving–in sharp contrast to Port-au-Prince. Indeed, as I have noted before, Cap-Haitien has been replacing Port-au-Prince as the hub for commerce.

The longer gangs stay in control of Port-au-Prince–and all indications are they will become even more entrenched–the more Cap-Haitien will continue be grow as the de-facto capital of Haiti. The remnants of a temporary central government will probably locate to Cap-Haitien to escape gang takeover of the capital. But it’s hard to believe they will have much if any authority in Okap.

And what a change! While Okap was the capital of Haiti for a brief time shortly after the successful revolution for independence that culminated in the final battle against the French outside Okap in November 1803, Port-au-Prince took over. In the ensuing decades, Port-au-Prince amassed virtually all power over the other cities and departments by centralizing all government functions.

If anything good is coming out of the power shift from Port-au-Prince back to the north due to gang control, it is that municipalities will be more free to collect taxes and take care of their own needs locally. Local authorities will call the shots and be far more efficient. And it is unlikely they will relinquish that new-found power to an appointed group that has now power to enforce its edicts. Of course, raising money is tough when the economy is weak, but at least the prospect of more control flowing downward to cities and towns from what remains of the central government could provide opportunities not possible before.

For now, Cap-Haitien is in the best position to carry out a de-centralized administration of Haiti. Officials from Cap-Haitien and other cities have already been in touch about how to govern themselves without Port-au-Prince. While some form of a central government will emerge and acquire some legitimacy, especially if fair and free elections can be held. In the meantime, it would behoove foreign governments seeking to aid Haiti to look more to Cap-Haitien. That city is poised to lead Haiti and perhaps even become the capital of Haiti once more.

Watch this space for updates!